Removing a Water Tank, Furnace or Radiators in Toronto

Short answer: the three heaviest metal objects in most Toronto homes are the hot water tank, the furnace and the cast iron radiators. All three are removable by a competent DIYer with a helper — except for the gas connections, which by Ontario law a licensed gas fitter must handle. None of them are worth much as scrap: a water tank is around $15–$30, a furnace $15–$40, a single radiator $20–$75. A whole house of radiators is the exception, at $80–$450.

This guide covers all three together, because in practice they come out together — a heating system upgrade takes the furnace and the radiators, and the tank goes at the same time. It replaces the separate water tank, furnace and radiator guides we used to run.

Before anything: the three rules that don't bend

• Gas lines are not DIY in Ontario. Disconnecting and capping a gas line requires a licensed gas fitter (TSSA-certified). This applies to gas water heaters and to every gas furnace. If you smell gas at any point, stop, ventilate, leave, and call your gas utility.
• Assume asbestos on anything pre-1985. Grey, fibrous or crumbly insulation on duct wrap, a furnace plenum, or old pipe lagging needs a professional assessment before it is disturbed. Abatement in Toronto runs $500–$2,000+ and must be done by a licensed contractor. Disturbing it yourself is the one mistake on this page that can't be undone.
• Drain and cool before you touch anything. A live hydronic system holds enough pressure and heat to cause serious burns. A 40-gallon tank holds 40 gallons of water and will flood a basement if you misjudge it.

Hot water tank removal

A standard 40–50 gallon tank weighs 100–150 lbs empty and considerably more full, which is the entire reason step three exists.

What you need

• Pipe wrench or large adjustable wrench
• Screwdriver set, flathead and Phillips
• Garden hose long enough to reach a floor drain, sump or outside
• Bucket, towels, and ideally a wet-dry vacuum
• Dolly or appliance hand truck — plus a second person, non-negotiable
• Voltage tester (electric tanks)
• Gloves and eye protection
• Hacksaw or tubing cutter for connections that won't break loose

If you own none of this, budget $50–$100 to assemble it. All of it is reusable.

Step by step

1. Kill the power or gas. Electric tanks run on a 30-amp double-pole breaker — switch it off and confirm dead with a voltage tester at the tank before touching a wire. Gas tanks: close the shut-off valve on the supply line (handle perpendicular to the pipe), and have a licensed gas fitter do the actual disconnection at the union.
2. Close the cold water supply at the valve on top of the tank. If there isn't one, shut the house main.
3. Drain it completely. Hose onto the drain valve at the bottom, other end lower than the tank so gravity does the work. Open a hot tap somewhere upstairs to break the vacuum, then open the drain valve. Expect 20–45 minutes. If nothing flows, the valve is sediment-clogged — work it open and closed a few times.
4. Disconnect the water lines at the top, counterclockwise, bucket underneath. Corroded fittings: penetrating oil, wait ten minutes, try again. If they still won't move, cut the pipe and replace the fittings later — that copper is worth $3.50–$4.20/lb anyway.
5. Pull the T&P discharge pipe running down the side. The valve itself can stay in the tank; the pipe just makes it awkward to move.
6. Disconnect the fuel. Electric: photograph the junction box wiring first, unscrew the wire nuts, cap and secure the house-side wires. Gas: licensed fitter, and the open line gets capped immediately.
7. Remove the flue (gas only) — usually a few sheet metal screws, then lift straight up and out of the way.
8. Move it. Dolly, two people, slow. Doorways, stairs and corners are where tanks get dropped.

If you would rather not do any of this, our hot water tank removal service covers the Toronto area.

What it's worth: the shell is light steel at $0.04–$0.12/lb, so 110–150 lbs comes to roughly $6–$18, plus $8–$15 for the brass fittings if they come off clean. Call it $15–$30 total. That is not a payday, and it is why tank removal is priced as a service rather than a purchase.

Old furnace removal

What it costs in Toronto

What drives the price

Access is most of it. A furnace in an open utility room is straightforward; one in a crawlspace or at the bottom of a narrow century-home stairwell is a different job entirely. Type matters second: standard gas forced-air is the easy case, high-efficiency condensing units add PVC venting and a condensate drain, oil furnaces may involve decommissioning a tank, and electric units are simpler but heavier.

The process

1. Gas and power off. The gas line must be shut and capped by a licensed gas fitter — this is not optional in Ontario. Breaker off at the panel.
2. Disconnect the venting. PVC on high-efficiency units comes apart easily; a conventional metal flue into a chimney takes more manoeuvring.
3. Disconnect the ductwork at the supply and return plenums, then seal the open duct ends so you're not heating the basement.
4. Move it out. 100–200 lbs, hand truck, helper, and the basement stairs are the whole challenge.

What it's worth: a residential gas furnace is mostly steel cabinet and chassis (100–200 lbs), a heavy-gauge steel or stainless heat exchanger, a copper-wound blower motor, some aluminum in the blower housing, and brass gas valves. Total scrap value is typically $15–$40 — roughly enough to cover a pickup, which is exactly why accessible units get collected free.

Cast iron radiator removal

Radiators are the one item on this page where the weight adds up to real money.

Weights and values

Surface rust and old paint are expected on cast iron and don't affect the price. See the full Toronto scrap metal price guide for how cast iron compares to everything else in the house.

Why they come out

• Switching to forced-air or a heat pump
• Renovation — radiators eat wall space and dictate furniture layout
• Building conversion or suite metering changes
• Boiler failure where the boiler isn't being replaced, which turns every radiator into dead weight

Step by step

1. Shut down and drain the whole system first. Boiler off, drained from the system's lowest drain point, and left at least an hour to cool. This step is where people get burned, literally.
2. Close the supply valve at the floor, clockwise. Two-pipe systems have a return valve at the other end — close that too.
3. Bleed it at the valve near the top with a radiator key or flathead. Container underneath; there will be water.
4. Break the union on the supply pipe with a pipe wrench, counterclockwise. Bucket first — a "drained" system always holds residual water.
5. Cap the open pipe so debris can't enter the system if the boiler still serves other parts of the building.
6. Move it. Two to three people on the big ones. Lay cardboard — cast iron scratches hardwood instantly. Sections that won't clear a doorway can be split with a radiator nipple wrench.

Before you scrap them, check what they are

Ornate Victorian and Edwardian radiators with decorative feet and scrollwork have a genuine restoration market in Toronto's heritage neighbourhoods. A radiator worth $20 at the yard can be worth several hundred to the right buyer. Salvage dealers and Facebook Marketplace are the two places to check, and it takes ten minutes.

Disposal: the four options, honestly compared

The arithmetic on driving it yourself rarely works. A furnace and a water tank together are perhaps $50 of metal, against a truck rental, the fuel, two hours, and getting a 150 lb tank up the basement stairs and into a bed by yourself. That is the specific gap a free pickup service fills.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a permit to remove a hot water tank in Toronto?

Removal generally does not require a permit; installing the replacement typically does. Gas work always requires a licensed fitter. A licensed installer handles the permitting as part of the job, which is one reason many homeowners simply bundle the two.

How much is an old furnace worth in scrap?

Typically $15–$40 for a residential gas forced-air unit — mostly steel, with small amounts of copper, aluminum and brass. Enough to cover a pickup, not enough to be worth a trip.

Can I disconnect the gas line myself?

No. In Ontario, gas line disconnection and capping must be done by a TSSA-certified gas fitter. Everything else on the tank or furnace you can do yourself.

What does a cast iron radiator weigh?

Roughly 100–150 lbs for a 6-section unit and 250–350 lbs for a 12-section. Never move one alone, and never down stairs without a second and preferably third person.

Will you pick up a furnace that's still connected?

No — the gas and electrical have to be disconnected first, by a licensed fitter for the gas side. Once it's disconnected and at ground level, we'll take it free.

Do you take radiators from a full house?

Yes, and whole-house radiator loads are among the jobs we're best set up for. Get them to ground-level access and we'll handle the rest.